Getting to Rock Bottom - Part 3

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

The 5:00 a.m. wake-up call (a knock on the dorm door) came, and everyone in the dorm headed out to breakfast.  Except for Mary, Kathy and me.  We relished the quiet and some extra bunk time.  Until another knock came, telling us we were due at breakfast.  A schedule mix-up led us to think we had the later breakfast that day, so the eggs weren't the only things scrambled that morning.

It was kind of nice to have the extra morning time, and I spent it walking around Phantom Ranch and visiting the mules awaiting their riders for the trip back up to the rim.  I bonded with my new friend, Jon'ez (means "long ears" in Navajo), giving him lots of head rubs and ear scratches.  I have an affinity for these hard-working creatures - perhaps it's the stubborn nature that we have in common?

My new buddy

We were soon off to Ribbon Falls (twelve miles round trip) along the N. Kaibab trail.  This relatively level trail wanders along Bright Angel Creek, through an area known as "The Box."  The towering Canyon walls form a narrow passage, and there are a number of bridges across the creek.  Another beautiful, warm spring day, a few wildflowers blooming, the sound of the creek and the dramatic scenery - doesn't get much better!

                Bridge along the N. Kaibab

Work was being done on the last bridge crossing to the falls, so we had to cross the fast-moving creek on a series of rocks.  From there, it was a short hike up to the falls. 

Mary makes her way across the creek

Ribbon Falls runs year-round, creating an oasis in a side canyon.  A spectacular sight and a wonderful place to take a break, have lunch, and just...chill.



               Ribbon Falls

Catching the spray - this was fun until the wind changed,

and blew all of that icy water at my back!

   View from behind the falls,        

 looking out into the canyon        

The hike back to Phantom was nearly as pleasant as the hike to the falls.  I say "nearly" because a crazy wind began to kick up.  The gusts were wild, blowing so much dust around that I had to turn my back to it a number of times.  There were dust-devils along the trail, and a tumbleweed crossed my path!  Kathy reported being blow into the rock wall!  We were all grateful not to be on some high ledge at that point.  Sjors later told me that Phantom recorded a gust of 55 mph that afternoon.

Despite the wind, I continued to wander around the ranch area.  Walked over to the Silver Bridge, saw a supply helicopter come in, down to the boat beach for a while and enjoyed the sight of 7 rafts heading downstream.  Another pleasant evening, another yummy dinner.  I was sad that this was our last night at rock bottom, so I strolled around the ranch for a little while.  I was hoping to see a Ring Tail Cat - a raccoon-like critter who frequents the area.  This time, as last, lots of people reported seeing them but alas, I had no luck.

The weather forecast for our hike up on Wednesday was not the best.  Rain, snow, high winds...we did get conflicting reports but none of them was for great weather.  Glad that I'd brought my long-johns, not glad that I'd left my rain poncho in the car.  Bought one from the Canteen - I can handle the cold but definitely didn't want to get myself (and all my gear, my camera) wet. 

Off to bed early, knowing we faced an early start and a long, hard hike!

Getting to Rock Bottom - Part 2

Monday, March 5, 2012

I don't think any of us slept very well the first night, despite being worn out.  We enjoyed our canteen breakfast of pancakes, eggs, bacon, peaches and COFFEE.  We were anxious to get out and explore.

We headed for the Clear Creek Trail and the Phantom Overlook.  A series of long, mostly gradual switchbacks lead to a spot where you can look down on Phantom Ranch - Bright Angel Creek, the dorms, the beautiful cottonwoods.

Our dorm is the partially hidden one on the far right

At the trail head (a short distance past our dorm on the N. Kaibab Trail), we saw a fellow carrying some equipment and he said he was headed up Clear Creek. Turns out he was Sjors, a long-time volunteer who lives at Phantom Ranch. I had recently read an article about him in Arizona Highways Magazine. He was heading up to monitor condors and carrying an antenna and other tracking equipment. He suggested we follow him up and help him. Talk about being in the right place at the right time! Sjors soon left us in the dust as he disappeared up the trail. The Clear Creek Trail turns east and heads uphill. We enjoyed the views from here, and continued up to another amazing place - along a high ridge where the Colorado River could be seen far below.  There were also expansive views of the Canyon from this narrow ledge.

View of the Colorado River from

high on Clear Creek Trail

We turned back to look for Sjors, and saw him on a side ridge.  He was waving the antenna to pick up the frequencies of condors (each tagged bird emits a different signal so that he can identify each one). It was wonderful to sit here and enjoy the views, the silence and learn more about condors and the names of the buttes surrounding us (courtesy of Sjors). We did spot a couple of condors and possibly one chick (not yet tagged). What a great way to spend a morning!

Sjors using an antenna to pick up Condor signals

We saw a helicopter land down near the river and thought it was to evacuate a woman that had been in our dorm.  She had hiked down the day before and had major blisters/foot issues as well as other possible health concerns.  Later in the day, Mary and I were near Phantom when yet another 'copter came in - this one was delivering some supplies for the NPS.  Very cool to see them land/take off down there!

After heading back down Clear Creek, we continued up N. Kaibab to Phantom Canyon.  Mary knew of this spot, and we had brought our water shoes along for wading the freezing waters of the creek.  We rock-hopped and picked our way into this narrow side canyon.  Lots more "Wows" for this spot.  We didn't go all that far in, as the terrain became more difficult and we didn't want to risk falling.  Many rocks to climb over and around, more creek to wade, and wet shoes to impede our traction.  We know when to stop!

Mary crosses the frigid waters of Phantom Creek

View into Phantom Canyon

  One of the beautiful Desert Anemones           

seen blooming in the Canyon                  

More time to relax in/around Phantom, feed apple cores to the mules, hang around at the boat beach.  There was so much to explore and we know we will never see even a small fraction of it. Each turn made you want to keep going to see what's around the next corner...and the next.  Good reason to return some day soon!

Getting to Rock Bottom - Part One

Wow.  Amazing.  Fabulous.  Spectacular.  Breathtaking.  I'm sure I used these and every other superlative that came to mind during my recent hikes in the Grand Canyon.  Awe-inspiring - did I use that one?  Humbling?  Feeling like a mere speck in the cosmos?

Mary O made all the reservations and set it up for herself, her sister Kathy and I to hike down the S. Kaibab Trail on Sunday, March 4, spend 3 nights at Phantom Ranch, and hike back up the Bright Angel Trail on Wednesday, March 7.  I am so lucky to have shared this adventure with two amazing women!

We had perfect weather every day but for the hike out - more on that later.  Here we are about 9 a.m., preparing to head down.  There was some snow/ice near the top of the trail and we strapped on our YakTrax.  However, we didn't need them for long.  As you can see in the shot below at Ooh Aah Point, the trail is clear and remained so for the rest of the trek to the bottom.

Mary, Kim, Kathy at the S. Kaibab Trailhead

At Ooh Aah Point

We continued on our way down, taking in the amazing views.  It was more crowded than my first trip down in January of '09.  The chilly rim weather soon turned mild and layers were shed.  During a rest/bathroom stop at Cedar Ridge, I set my pack down under a tree.  When I returned, there was a small group of people taking photos at that spot - of a squirrel trying to get into my pack!  These varmints are quite bold (sadly, a result of people who feed them) and very adept at thievery.  I snapped a couple of pics as well, but when he tried to bite through my water bottle, I chased him away. 

Leaving Cedar Ridge, I assumed that Mary and Kathy were a good bit ahead of me down the trail.  At one point, I waved to two people at O'Neill Butte, thinking it was my two hiking buddies.  When I arrived at Phantom Ranch, I discovered that they had not yet checked in.  How could that be?  There isn't any way to pass someone on the trail without notice, and I was taking my own sweet time and savoring the adventure.  I got our dorm assignment and went ahead to secure lower bunks for each of us.  I did get a bit concerned after a while - but not to worry.  My intrepid friends soon showed up and informed me that they were taking in the view on the west side of Cedar Ridge, and I headed down ahead of them!

Dorm, Sweet Dorm Number 15:

By the way, I took 671 pictures on this trip - a new record, even for me.  The beauty of digital - I photograph everything, using multiple exposures and therefore manage to get a few good ones.  I won't be including them all here, but if you really want to see them all, just ask.  LOL!

We walked a lot around Phantom, finding that sitting down for more than a few minutes caused every muscle to stiffen up instantly.  When the dinner bell rang at 6:30, we were more than ready for our beef stew - including salad, cornbread and chocolate cake for dessert!  They do an amazing job with the food at Phantom Ranch - everything is fresh, hot and plentiful.  We can thank the hardworking mules for hauling it all down!  Meals are served "family style" at long tables, so it's a great chance to meet and chat with other hikers.  Each night we were assigned a different table and people come and go from day to day - the faces change and there's always lots to share.

The Canteen - hub for meals, mail, souvenirs and socializing

Dinner!

  

Dessert!



Kathy, Kim, Mary - at dinner

What a beautiful evening!  After dinner, we headed down to the Boat Beach along the Colorado River.  The moon was up and so bright that we did not need our flashlights.  Even with the moonlight, we were able to see thousands of stars, including Big/Little Dippers, Cassiopeia, Pleiades, and several planets (not sure which).

True to my word to the Luney Ladies, while at the beach I howled at that almost full moon.  Mary howled a bit, and Kathy claims to have "yipped" but I'm not sure I heard her.  Perhaps I scared her?  We wondered what the nearby campers might have thought...

A shower sure felt good, as did my lumpy bunk.  Lights out.

Getting Floored

Well, here I am back in AZ.  I am grateful for a roof over my head and indoor plumbing, but am without furniture, a tv and internet service!  Not sure which of those is worse, but at the moment I'm missing my bed the most.  Our condo has tenants, so I'm staying at the house.  I'm able to connect to the internet over at the condo clubhouse, so I'm not completely cut off from the world.

Not sure which is more stupid - an air mattress that comes with a pump that ONLY works with electricity and needs 12 hours to charge (which I discovered as I was preparing for bed my first night), - or the person who buys such a thing.

I made a pallet with every blanket and sheet I could find and it didn't help much.  It was a long night.  I looked forward to night two with a charged pump and air mattress with actual air.  NOT.  The pump does not work!  The whole thing is brand new, right out of the box...hell of a time to discover a defect.  (I've also dealt with a dead car battery two different mornings - not my week for batteries.)  The next morning, as I lay on the floor wondering if I could actually get upright without emergency assistance, a neuron fired in my tired old brain.  Hair dryer!!!  It does work, a bit.  I spent most of today down in Prescott, running errands and shopping at stores that do not exist up here in Sedona.  And I bought an air pump.  I'm so excited, I might just go to bed right now...

I have been here for 4 days and have not had even one measly hike.  Not one.  Nada.  Too many other things demanding my attention and keeping me from meandering through the red rocks.  That just isn't right!  This weekend is the big hike to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  I am concerned about hiking out this time - lack of training, stressed out, bogged down with worry over things I can't control.  I'm hoping that my time in the Canyon will restore my spirit and recharge my enthusiasm.  At least, while concentrating on where I'm walking and on not falling over the edge, perhaps I won't be able to focus on other things?  And well, if that doesn't work and I don't watch where I'm going, then I won't have to worry about the other stuff anyway!

I mentioned to my hiking buddy Mary that I am concerned about her getting back up to the rim long before I do.  Her sister Kathy will also be with us.  Mary's response was that "Kathy is even slower than you."  Wow, I didn't know that was possible!

Here's a photo of almond tree blossoms - a wonderful surprise in our yard.  Had not seen these two trees in bloom before and did not know what they are.  Just gorgeous, and they smell heavenly.  There are also two small nectarine trees in bloom.  If we get actual harvests from these, we can perhaps live on almonds, nectarines, mesquite flour and prickly pear fruit.  (A lot healthier than the Jalapeno Cheetos I had yesterday - all your fault, Amy.)

Delightfully scented almond tree blossoms

While in Prescott today, I visited the Home Depot and Lowes resident Great Horned Owls.  Both stores have a pair who live in their garden departments, high in the rafters.  As these areas are open to the outdoors, the birds can come and go at will and seem to like the shelter - while not minding the shoppers and gawkers.

The Lowes owls have not produced any offspring the last year or two, but look who I saw today at Home Depot!  Supposedly there are 3 young, but I just saw these two with one of the adults.  Aren't they just beautiful?  I don't know when they were born.

Adult and two young Great Horned Owls

The employees seem to really enjoy visiting the owls and talking about them.  Except maybe in this case...while I was in Home Depot, a female employee had to climb a ladder to retrieve a large box that was on a shelf below the owl area.  When she tilted the box toward her, some rather unpleasant owl effects rained down on her head.  Effects being...the chewed back leg of a rabbit and bits of, uh, other stuff.  Who knew such things could befall a person working in Home Depot?

Many of my dear friends have been asking what's happening with the sale of our St. Charles home.  I haven't wanted to say much, not wanting to jinx anything.  We do have a contract and are currently working through the inspection process.  We still have to hold our breath for a bit and hope it all goes through (hence the above-referenced stress).  The reality of moving so far away from all that I've loved for so many years...well, it is starting to sink in and turns out I'm not as tough as I like to think.

So please, my friends, keep your collective fingers crossed for us and bear with me as I am even crabbier than usual.  I hope to make it up to everyone by offering a place to stay and a personal tour guide when you visit Sedona.  I promise you won't have to sleep on an air mattress - even one with air in it.

Getting Bugged

The saga of the money pit continues...

The chicken coop.  That cute little building that I wanted to turn into a garden/craft space.  The one filled with chicken filth.  The one I spent days cleaning, filling 3 huge trash bags with crumpled newspaper filled with chicken filth.  The one where I exposed myself to goodness knows what...yes, that one.

I figured out how to get a new power washer into my little car, and proudly brought it home.  More importantly, I figured out how to do the required assembly and get it running.  I donned protective eye wear, a dust mask, and a most fashionable lime green shower cap.  NO, photos of this do not exist.  I really should have had that HAZMAT suit.  I blasted that space with bleach and water, and more bleach and water.  The filth ran down the walls and out the door.  I was imagining how it would look, all spiffed up and painted.

Think again.

The next day, an exterminator came out to see about spraying for termites at the studio building.  (That's another sad story.)  I had him look at the coop because I'd seen these odd little bugs.  They appeared to be dead, and I had done a crazy "there are weird bugs on me" dance.  That shower cap turned out to be the best idea I had.  After closer examination, Bug Man determined that these critters - all of which were not dead) - are Mexican Bed Bugs (a/k/a Poultry Bugs).  WHAT?  I commenced to do the bug dance again, while my skin crawled and my stomach churned.  I'd had those things ON me.  I went back to the condo in those dirty clothes.  Bug Man said that these things are known to infest chicken coops and prey on birds.  And people.  They are apparently very difficult and expensive to remove.  He suggested just tearing down the coop.  I think something flammable would be better...never a good flame-thrower on hand when you need one.

I suppose this explains why the seller no longer had chickens, and why she left the filth for me.  Nice.

Perhaps someday I will laugh about this, but now - not so much. 

I have managed to get out to hike most days.  Not for as long as I'd like, but the trails will be waiting for me next time.  I'm trying to get into some shape for next month's Canyon hike, but fear I have a lot more to do.  As the sign at the Canyon reads "Getting down is Optional, getting back up is Mandatory." 

The highlight the other day was the small herd of javelinas along the Jack's Canyon Trail.  Such fun watching and photographing them.  Most locals have no affection for them, as they are known to devour landscaping with ease.  Perhaps my fascination with them will fade with time, but with our property being fenced I'm not too concerned at this point.  I did watch them walk right through a barbed wire fence.  They chomp on prickly pear cactus pads, so it seems those critters are tough inside and out.

I counted 12 plus one baby.  First time I'd seen a baby - a cute little sausage on legs.  A few of them looked up at me, and then returned to eating.  I stayed behind a shrub or small tree the whole time, being careful not to spook them (or antagonize them).  They moved on along the trail, and at one point I was nearly surrounded.  That was a little unsettling, but they paid very little attention to me and would scram at my slightest movement.  The sun was going down behind the hills and I needed to get back to my car.  One guy kept an eye on me, and when I tried to pass by he gave a snort and a stomp.  I raised my trusty hiking poles and said "Git back."  Apparently, I speak Javelina because he backed up and resumed eating.

Snarfing up dinner

Caught this guy scratching his butt on a post.

  Had to be a guy - no female would behave that way in public!

Hard to get a good shot of the baby - stayed very close to mom.

Hiking a bit later this morning, and then attending a wildflower program at Red Rock State Park.  Will be back in time to watch the Super Bowl.  Go Giants!

Getting Up and Down

With my next big adventure - hiking back to Phantom Ranch in early March - fast approaching, I've been trying to do some challenging trails here.  Hot Loop was a great hike the other day.  Glorious views of Woods Canyon and the Village of Oak Creek; running into my pal Kristi on her beautiful horse L; meeting a lady who moved here from Carol Stream. 

Two days ago - on the Bear Mountain Trail in Boynton Canyon...This is one of the more challenging trails I have done here.  A long climb with an elevation increase of 1000 feet, very steep and rocky in places.  Hauling myself up over some big rocks, around tight turns, stopping often to take in the view (and yes, catch my breath). 

Yes, this is the trail...

And so is this...

Going up, this trail is a quad-burning lung-buster; coming down is just, well, scary.  I pick my way very slowly over the rocks and around the turns.  But this view from the top is the payoff!

Gotta love that blue sky!

And speaking of blue...there was a small flock of Mountain Bluebirds.  Having breakfast of Juniper berries and showing off their beautiful hues.  A life-list bird for me - yay!

Male Mountain Bluebird in Juniper tree

After two challenging hikes in two days, I opted yesterday for the easy but beautiful Little Horse Trail to Chicken Point.  Started out early enough that I heard a few coyote yips as I headed toward the cliffs.  I think she was greeting the day with me.  I stopped at Chicken Point to enjoy the views and the solitude - one of the few times I've been there that no Jeep tours showed up...and then I realized the tile guy was headed to the house!  It was a fast 2 miler back to the car...but captured this view of the red rocks in the early morning light...

Cathedral Rock

And the update from the money pit...

Prep work for tile floors done yesterday; tile install may start later today.  Measuring done for screens for French doors - I want to be able to leave these doors open.  They lead from master bedroom to back deck but I don't want any uninvited guests (this means you, snakes and tarantulas!!!).

Working in the yard and right now it is like spitting in the ocean.  No sign of progress.  But I did see on-line that burn permits are issued and I will check into that today.  I have no other way to dispose of all this mess...and wish I had some KCCN'ers here to do a prescribed burn with me!

My shiny new power washer is assembled and ready to go.  I will try it out today and hopefully, get the chicken coop cleaned well enough that I won't need a Hazmat suit to enter.

Happy Trails!



Getting Thawed

I know, I know - so far our Midwest winter hasn't been bad.  I did miss out on the most recent storm and the chance to snowshoe with my pals.  But hiking in shirtsleeves?  Working in the yard in January?  Feeling the warm AZ sun on my face...what's not to like?

Haven't felt much like blogging.  Overwhelmed with chores/errands/decisions about the "money pit" and finding myself scattered.  Getting lots done, but also managing to do my usual stupid things.  Enjoyed a fabulous afternoon at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix on Tuesday.  That is, I enjoyed it until I accidentally deleted ALL of the photos I'd taken.  Later in Scottsdale, I was heading across a parking lot to the crosswalk when I walked smack into a low tree limb.  I hit the top of my head so hard that it knocked me on my ass.  One would think the second stupid act would have precipitated the first, but nooo.  I manage to do stupid things even without a head injury.

I have had some good hikes and lots of fun bird sightings!  The feeders at the house are attracting a great variety of birds - some of which I've never seen at feeders in the past.  The ones I've detected so far (you non-birdnerds can skip this part):  Northern Flicker (red shafted), Juniper titmouse, juncos (I believe they are the Oregon variety, which has a rusty patch on its back), house finches, Canyon Towhees, jays, Bushtits mobbing the suet feeder, Curve Billed and Crissal Thrashers (the latter of which sits in the platform feeder), Anna's and  Black-Chinned Hummingbirds, White Crowned Sparrows, Ravens, male and female Yellow-Rumped Warblers at the suet!  I bought a bag of mealworms yesterday - will be interesting to see who shows up for those.  There are Western Bluebirds all around, and I'm hoping a few of them might take advantage of free worms.

         Western Bluebird along the Huckaby Trail

Northern Flicker at my birdbath

 Another long drive down to Prescott yesterday for a variety of errands.  I was hell-bent on getting a pressure washer so that I can finally de-funk the chicken coop.  The problem was transporting it to the house.  Bought one at Lowes and had them remove it from the box.  Managed to fit it into the Z (amazing what you can get into that little car when you are as stubborn as I).

The challenge now will be to complete the assembly and figure out how to use the thing.

My reward for all those errands was a few hours spent walking the trails near Willow and Watson Lakes in Prescott.  I'm glad I found this spot and hope to go back when I have a whole day to spend.  It was a hot-spot for a birdnerd, as well as peaceful and scenic.  The Granite Dells are such an unusual sight, and there is lots more to explore.  Waterfowl were all over the lakes and side streams (N. Pintail, Coots, Canvasbacks, Green Winged Teal; as many as 7 Cormorants perched at once in a snag in Willow Lake; a couple of Great Blue Herons posing on the rocks; a N. Harrier fly-by; and a cute Black Phoebe on a nearby fence.  And those are just the ones my limited skills could view and identify.  And just to be sure I don't miss the Midwest too much - a few Canada Geese!  Had my lunch perched on a big rock near the water, and below is the view...

It is just getting to be daylight here now (a bit after 7 a.m.), and I'll be heading out for a hike after the mountain lions have had a chance to finish breakfast.  Will try the Hot Loop Trail again - last time I headed there, I missed a turn and got lost.  So...if this is the last you hear of me you'll know why.  LOL!