I don't think any of us slept very well the first night, despite being worn out. We enjoyed our canteen breakfast of pancakes, eggs, bacon, peaches and COFFEE. We were anxious to get out and explore.
We headed for the Clear Creek Trail and the Phantom Overlook. A series of long, mostly gradual switchbacks lead to a spot where you can look down on Phantom Ranch - Bright Angel Creek, the dorms, the beautiful cottonwoods.
Our dorm is the partially hidden one on the far right
At the trail head (a short distance past our dorm on the N. Kaibab Trail), we saw a fellow carrying some equipment and he said he was headed up Clear Creek. Turns out he was Sjors, a long-time volunteer who lives at Phantom Ranch. I had recently read an article about him in Arizona Highways Magazine. He was heading up to monitor condors and carrying an antenna and other tracking equipment. He suggested we follow him up and help him. Talk about being in the right place at the right time! Sjors soon left us in the dust as he disappeared up the trail. The Clear Creek Trail turns east and heads uphill. We enjoyed the views from here, and continued up to another amazing place - along a high ridge where the Colorado River could be seen far below. There were also expansive views of the Canyon from this narrow ledge.
View of the Colorado River from
high on Clear Creek Trail
Sjors using an antenna to pick up Condor signals
We saw a helicopter land down near the river and thought it was to evacuate a woman that had been in our dorm. She had hiked down the day before and had major blisters/foot issues as well as other possible health concerns. Later in the day, Mary and I were near Phantom when yet another 'copter came in - this one was delivering some supplies for the NPS. Very cool to see them land/take off down there!
After heading back down Clear Creek, we continued up N. Kaibab to Phantom Canyon. Mary knew of this spot, and we had brought our water shoes along for wading the freezing waters of the creek. We rock-hopped and picked our way into this narrow side canyon. Lots more "Wows" for this spot. We didn't go all that far in, as the terrain became more difficult and we didn't want to risk falling. Many rocks to climb over and around, more creek to wade, and wet shoes to impede our traction. We know when to stop!
View into Phantom Canyon
One of the beautiful Desert Anemones
seen blooming in the Canyon
More time to relax in/around Phantom, feed apple cores to the mules, hang around at the boat beach. There was so much to explore and we know we will never see even a small fraction of it. Each turn made you want to keep going to see what's around the next corner...and the next. Good reason to return some day soon!
Wow - great description there, Kim - the story of the helicopter and sick lady made me realize you ARE in the middle of nowhere. I'd like to read Sjors' blog and see HIS side of the story - "there were these three ladies stalking me and would not stop flirting...." :)
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