Getting Back to the Top

March 7, 2012

The day of the big climb UP.  Early breakfast, packing up.  Mary and Kathy left just before daylight.  I hung around a while and watched the sky turn a gloomy gray.  Weather predictions still not good - high winds/rain/snow.  I took last looks around Phantom and headed for the Bright Angel Trail.  When I reached the Silver Bridge, it began to rain.  I donned my parka, which was more like one of those plastic bags used in the oven for roasting turkeys.  Quite chilly out, but my cocoon did not breathe and I quickly overheated.  I didn't want to get wet, but as soon as the drizzle stopped - that plastic sheet came off and the cold, fresh air was a welcome relief.

Leaving Phantom

I enjoyed the walk along the river during the first part of the trail.  Winding but mostly level, with nice views and the sound of the water kept me company.  Very few people here, and I always enjoy the solitude.

             Looking back upriver at the two bridges

Continuing along the Bright Angel Trail

New toilets at the Pipe Creek rest house - yay!  The trail turns away from the Colorado River and into the canyon for the trip to the rim. 

Didn't seem to take long to get to the switchback area known as Devil's Corkscrew - this spot gets really hot in summer with no shade available, and unprepared hikers often get into trouble here in the searing heat.

Looking down at the "corkscrew"

When I got near the top of this area, a large bird flew directly toward me - a condor!  The light was rather low and flat, and none of my photos turned out.  He was also flying eye-level to me and I could never get a read on his tag number.  It was a joy to watch as he floated in circles before landing on the cliff face across from me. 

Brittlebush in bloom              

Onward.  Upward.  Cold. Hot.  Windy.  Not.  Flurries.  When I reached Indian Garden - a campground about half way to the top - I was wearing a tank top with my pants and it began to snow quite hard.  I was glad for the small shelter and put my warmer clothes back on.  The problem with this weather - stopping for even a brief break left me chilled.  A quick snarf of my bagel and a snack, and a refill of water bottles.  This is the only place to get water on the hike up.

A quick lunch and shelter from the snow

Indian Garden is also the spot from which the trail really began to climb.  Luckily, the wind did not kick up and after the Indian Garden snowfall, I met only flurries. 

Catching snowflakes on my mittens

And hey!  Peeks of sun!  The light over the canyon behind and below me is dramatic, with low clouds, streaks of sunlight, changing every few minutes.  My frequent stops to catch my breath gave me a chance to enjoy the views.

OK, the almost-breaking point. I knew I was still below the 3-mile Rest House. I looked up the trail and watched tiny people ascending the switchbacks. Had one of "those" moments. "I can't do this." Want some cheese with that whine? After a water/snack break, I recalled the words of Greg, our dinner server from the night before at Phantom. Concerned hikers were asking him about weather reports and after answering questions, he said that we all need to remember what the staff there says about hiking up - "Rejoice, Rejoice, You Have No Choice." LOL. So true! Got myself together and up I went.

Aahhh, the 3 Mile House. A break and a good laugh watching a squirrel run off with a hiker's snack bag. The bag was larger than the squirrel. Hiker chased him, squirrel dropped bag that now has holes in it. Squirrel returned and dashed toward packs. Hiker chased. Repeat.

    Break time at 3 Mile Rest House - and peeks of sun

The ever-changing light over my favorite place on earth

The trail got sloppy and quite muddy in places.  Farther up, there was some packed snow but I did not encounter any ice.  Good thing, because I was too tired to put on my YakTrax.  1.5 Mile Rest House.  The trail got steeper and steeper, but every step brought me closer to the top.  No looking up now -too discouraging.  The lower tunnel.  More switchbacks.  When the upper tunnel came into view, I knew I had it made.

Got mud?

    Saw these petroglyphs under a rock ledge, just below
    the upper tunnel.  Reddish drawings of animals - elk?
    Deer? Very cool.


A last turn or two and...

WOOHOO!!!

I had never seen Mary or Kathy along the trail, but we reunited at Bright Angel Lodge.  A tired, but happy trio.  Mary drove us through the area where employees are housed, and I got to see the very cool house in which they lived when their father worked for the Park Service.  We then headed back to Sedona and shared our stories of the hike up. 

It seems normal to think that after making this climb out - I'll never do THAT again.  Right.  Already trying to figure out when I might return...