Getting Ready

April 5, 2011

I've been thinking lately about all the things in life that we count.  Important ones and others that don't matter in the grand scheme of things.  Sheep to sleep.  Our lucky stars.  Blessings.  Count me in.  Count me out.  "If I could count the number of times I..."  The pounds on the scale.  The miles we've run/walked/driven.  The hours we've worked - or not.  The 10 second countdown to a new year.  Birthdays.  At the present time, the number of boxes stacked throughout my house.  The people on whom we can count.  In my case, that last one counts most!

NIFB:

When I began volunteering at Northern Illinois Food Bank, my first shift there involved inspecting and packing frozen meat in the warehouse.  Although I'm not a vegetarian, I'm not all that fond of meat - especially the uncooked variety.  Why was I there, doing such an unpleasant task?  Five years and countless boxes of meat (and lots of other products) later, I found that it has been some of the hardest and most rewarding work in my life.  It was pure luck that I chose to volunteer on Monday mornings, working with a group of people who quickly became my friends.  How could I have known that I would soon look forward to those Monday shifts - frozen meat or not?


    Motley Monday crew, giving me quite the send-off!

Hard at work on "the line" in the food processing room

With my pet project, the Wall of Shame - all of the      

non-food donations.  Each week I would try to reorganize

 it, so that others could mess it up again.             

The colorful fliers on the wall are instructions           

for how this stuff should be sorted.                     

 They actually function as wall art -                     

because no one pays any attention!                    

KCCN:

I'm not sure exactly when my real interest in nature began, but it was again a stroke of luck that I found out about the Kane County Certified Naturalist Program.  I'm proud to say I was part of the very first graduating class of this outstanding program.  I'm now a card-carrying Certified Naturalist.  (I don't think neurotics get nicely laminated cards, so that one doesn't count.)  I not only learned about our environment - flora/fauna/history, but I had the opportunity to contribute to caring for our local natural treasures.  Cutting brush, planting/collecting seeds and oak trees, caring for newly planted trees were just some of the tasks I enjoyed.  Those things led to birdwatching - yes, birds get counted too.  Counting the "peents" of Woodcocks on an early spring evening.  Counting all the varieties of wildflowers along our trails - our crazy weather of late allowed me to see many of them in bloom.  I would have missed them otherwise.  Yesterday, there was a gorgeous Tiger Swallowtail on my viburnum!

At this time in life, making new friends was less easy - as a parent, so many friends are found through our kids and their activities.  With a grown daughter, that phase had ended.  But what an amazing new chapter began!  Sharing some nature classes and volunteer time with a few fun people turned into sharing time together outside of that realm.  Which turned into a smaller, then larger group of incredible women getting together to laugh and eat and talk and yes, howl at the full moon. 

I have many fun pics of our Nature Nerd activities - unfortunately for this writing, they are stored on discs in a box somewhere in the twilight zone...

  Sphinx Moth on a Fringed Gentian (at Carol's Wetland). 

              This counts as one of my favorite photos!

Milkweed fluff - one of nature's small miracles

There is so much to say and so much that I will miss, that I am left wondering why this all seemed like a good thing to do.  Pack up - countless boxes and life as I know it - and start over in a small town far away.  Will it eventually prove to be a good decision?  That remains to be seen.  But for now, I will count the "knowns" in my life.

I know that I have friends who have given me more laughter and fun and support than I could have imagined.  Friends from whom I've learned, with whom I've played, who have made me feel valued and trusted.  For all of you, I hope I have responded in kind and that you know how much I love and treasure our friendship.  How much I will miss you.  How fortunate I have been to know you.

And how you had better keep in touch - and come visit!

A friendship can weather most things and thrive in thin soil; but it needs a little mulch of letters and phone calls and small, silly presents every so often - just to save it from drying out completely.
Pam Brown

Come on out to visit and enjoy some of the great trails

in and around Sedona.  You'll catch Red Rock fever!

With love and thanks to all of you...
Kim

Getting Back to the Top

March 7, 2012

The day of the big climb UP.  Early breakfast, packing up.  Mary and Kathy left just before daylight.  I hung around a while and watched the sky turn a gloomy gray.  Weather predictions still not good - high winds/rain/snow.  I took last looks around Phantom and headed for the Bright Angel Trail.  When I reached the Silver Bridge, it began to rain.  I donned my parka, which was more like one of those plastic bags used in the oven for roasting turkeys.  Quite chilly out, but my cocoon did not breathe and I quickly overheated.  I didn't want to get wet, but as soon as the drizzle stopped - that plastic sheet came off and the cold, fresh air was a welcome relief.

Leaving Phantom

I enjoyed the walk along the river during the first part of the trail.  Winding but mostly level, with nice views and the sound of the water kept me company.  Very few people here, and I always enjoy the solitude.

             Looking back upriver at the two bridges

Continuing along the Bright Angel Trail

New toilets at the Pipe Creek rest house - yay!  The trail turns away from the Colorado River and into the canyon for the trip to the rim. 

Didn't seem to take long to get to the switchback area known as Devil's Corkscrew - this spot gets really hot in summer with no shade available, and unprepared hikers often get into trouble here in the searing heat.

Looking down at the "corkscrew"

When I got near the top of this area, a large bird flew directly toward me - a condor!  The light was rather low and flat, and none of my photos turned out.  He was also flying eye-level to me and I could never get a read on his tag number.  It was a joy to watch as he floated in circles before landing on the cliff face across from me. 

Brittlebush in bloom              

Onward.  Upward.  Cold. Hot.  Windy.  Not.  Flurries.  When I reached Indian Garden - a campground about half way to the top - I was wearing a tank top with my pants and it began to snow quite hard.  I was glad for the small shelter and put my warmer clothes back on.  The problem with this weather - stopping for even a brief break left me chilled.  A quick snarf of my bagel and a snack, and a refill of water bottles.  This is the only place to get water on the hike up.

A quick lunch and shelter from the snow

Indian Garden is also the spot from which the trail really began to climb.  Luckily, the wind did not kick up and after the Indian Garden snowfall, I met only flurries. 

Catching snowflakes on my mittens

And hey!  Peeks of sun!  The light over the canyon behind and below me is dramatic, with low clouds, streaks of sunlight, changing every few minutes.  My frequent stops to catch my breath gave me a chance to enjoy the views.

OK, the almost-breaking point. I knew I was still below the 3-mile Rest House. I looked up the trail and watched tiny people ascending the switchbacks. Had one of "those" moments. "I can't do this." Want some cheese with that whine? After a water/snack break, I recalled the words of Greg, our dinner server from the night before at Phantom. Concerned hikers were asking him about weather reports and after answering questions, he said that we all need to remember what the staff there says about hiking up - "Rejoice, Rejoice, You Have No Choice." LOL. So true! Got myself together and up I went.

Aahhh, the 3 Mile House. A break and a good laugh watching a squirrel run off with a hiker's snack bag. The bag was larger than the squirrel. Hiker chased him, squirrel dropped bag that now has holes in it. Squirrel returned and dashed toward packs. Hiker chased. Repeat.

    Break time at 3 Mile Rest House - and peeks of sun

The ever-changing light over my favorite place on earth

The trail got sloppy and quite muddy in places.  Farther up, there was some packed snow but I did not encounter any ice.  Good thing, because I was too tired to put on my YakTrax.  1.5 Mile Rest House.  The trail got steeper and steeper, but every step brought me closer to the top.  No looking up now -too discouraging.  The lower tunnel.  More switchbacks.  When the upper tunnel came into view, I knew I had it made.

Got mud?

    Saw these petroglyphs under a rock ledge, just below
    the upper tunnel.  Reddish drawings of animals - elk?
    Deer? Very cool.


A last turn or two and...

WOOHOO!!!

I had never seen Mary or Kathy along the trail, but we reunited at Bright Angel Lodge.  A tired, but happy trio.  Mary drove us through the area where employees are housed, and I got to see the very cool house in which they lived when their father worked for the Park Service.  We then headed back to Sedona and shared our stories of the hike up. 

It seems normal to think that after making this climb out - I'll never do THAT again.  Right.  Already trying to figure out when I might return...



Getting to Rock Bottom - Part 3

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

The 5:00 a.m. wake-up call (a knock on the dorm door) came, and everyone in the dorm headed out to breakfast.  Except for Mary, Kathy and me.  We relished the quiet and some extra bunk time.  Until another knock came, telling us we were due at breakfast.  A schedule mix-up led us to think we had the later breakfast that day, so the eggs weren't the only things scrambled that morning.

It was kind of nice to have the extra morning time, and I spent it walking around Phantom Ranch and visiting the mules awaiting their riders for the trip back up to the rim.  I bonded with my new friend, Jon'ez (means "long ears" in Navajo), giving him lots of head rubs and ear scratches.  I have an affinity for these hard-working creatures - perhaps it's the stubborn nature that we have in common?

My new buddy

We were soon off to Ribbon Falls (twelve miles round trip) along the N. Kaibab trail.  This relatively level trail wanders along Bright Angel Creek, through an area known as "The Box."  The towering Canyon walls form a narrow passage, and there are a number of bridges across the creek.  Another beautiful, warm spring day, a few wildflowers blooming, the sound of the creek and the dramatic scenery - doesn't get much better!

                Bridge along the N. Kaibab

Work was being done on the last bridge crossing to the falls, so we had to cross the fast-moving creek on a series of rocks.  From there, it was a short hike up to the falls. 

Mary makes her way across the creek

Ribbon Falls runs year-round, creating an oasis in a side canyon.  A spectacular sight and a wonderful place to take a break, have lunch, and just...chill.



               Ribbon Falls

Catching the spray - this was fun until the wind changed,

and blew all of that icy water at my back!

   View from behind the falls,        

 looking out into the canyon        

The hike back to Phantom was nearly as pleasant as the hike to the falls.  I say "nearly" because a crazy wind began to kick up.  The gusts were wild, blowing so much dust around that I had to turn my back to it a number of times.  There were dust-devils along the trail, and a tumbleweed crossed my path!  Kathy reported being blow into the rock wall!  We were all grateful not to be on some high ledge at that point.  Sjors later told me that Phantom recorded a gust of 55 mph that afternoon.

Despite the wind, I continued to wander around the ranch area.  Walked over to the Silver Bridge, saw a supply helicopter come in, down to the boat beach for a while and enjoyed the sight of 7 rafts heading downstream.  Another pleasant evening, another yummy dinner.  I was sad that this was our last night at rock bottom, so I strolled around the ranch for a little while.  I was hoping to see a Ring Tail Cat - a raccoon-like critter who frequents the area.  This time, as last, lots of people reported seeing them but alas, I had no luck.

The weather forecast for our hike up on Wednesday was not the best.  Rain, snow, high winds...we did get conflicting reports but none of them was for great weather.  Glad that I'd brought my long-johns, not glad that I'd left my rain poncho in the car.  Bought one from the Canteen - I can handle the cold but definitely didn't want to get myself (and all my gear, my camera) wet. 

Off to bed early, knowing we faced an early start and a long, hard hike!

Getting to Rock Bottom - Part 2

Monday, March 5, 2012

I don't think any of us slept very well the first night, despite being worn out.  We enjoyed our canteen breakfast of pancakes, eggs, bacon, peaches and COFFEE.  We were anxious to get out and explore.

We headed for the Clear Creek Trail and the Phantom Overlook.  A series of long, mostly gradual switchbacks lead to a spot where you can look down on Phantom Ranch - Bright Angel Creek, the dorms, the beautiful cottonwoods.

Our dorm is the partially hidden one on the far right

At the trail head (a short distance past our dorm on the N. Kaibab Trail), we saw a fellow carrying some equipment and he said he was headed up Clear Creek. Turns out he was Sjors, a long-time volunteer who lives at Phantom Ranch. I had recently read an article about him in Arizona Highways Magazine. He was heading up to monitor condors and carrying an antenna and other tracking equipment. He suggested we follow him up and help him. Talk about being in the right place at the right time! Sjors soon left us in the dust as he disappeared up the trail. The Clear Creek Trail turns east and heads uphill. We enjoyed the views from here, and continued up to another amazing place - along a high ridge where the Colorado River could be seen far below.  There were also expansive views of the Canyon from this narrow ledge.

View of the Colorado River from

high on Clear Creek Trail

We turned back to look for Sjors, and saw him on a side ridge.  He was waving the antenna to pick up the frequencies of condors (each tagged bird emits a different signal so that he can identify each one). It was wonderful to sit here and enjoy the views, the silence and learn more about condors and the names of the buttes surrounding us (courtesy of Sjors). We did spot a couple of condors and possibly one chick (not yet tagged). What a great way to spend a morning!

Sjors using an antenna to pick up Condor signals

We saw a helicopter land down near the river and thought it was to evacuate a woman that had been in our dorm.  She had hiked down the day before and had major blisters/foot issues as well as other possible health concerns.  Later in the day, Mary and I were near Phantom when yet another 'copter came in - this one was delivering some supplies for the NPS.  Very cool to see them land/take off down there!

After heading back down Clear Creek, we continued up N. Kaibab to Phantom Canyon.  Mary knew of this spot, and we had brought our water shoes along for wading the freezing waters of the creek.  We rock-hopped and picked our way into this narrow side canyon.  Lots more "Wows" for this spot.  We didn't go all that far in, as the terrain became more difficult and we didn't want to risk falling.  Many rocks to climb over and around, more creek to wade, and wet shoes to impede our traction.  We know when to stop!

Mary crosses the frigid waters of Phantom Creek

View into Phantom Canyon

  One of the beautiful Desert Anemones           

seen blooming in the Canyon                  

More time to relax in/around Phantom, feed apple cores to the mules, hang around at the boat beach.  There was so much to explore and we know we will never see even a small fraction of it. Each turn made you want to keep going to see what's around the next corner...and the next.  Good reason to return some day soon!

Getting to Rock Bottom - Part One

Wow.  Amazing.  Fabulous.  Spectacular.  Breathtaking.  I'm sure I used these and every other superlative that came to mind during my recent hikes in the Grand Canyon.  Awe-inspiring - did I use that one?  Humbling?  Feeling like a mere speck in the cosmos?

Mary O made all the reservations and set it up for herself, her sister Kathy and I to hike down the S. Kaibab Trail on Sunday, March 4, spend 3 nights at Phantom Ranch, and hike back up the Bright Angel Trail on Wednesday, March 7.  I am so lucky to have shared this adventure with two amazing women!

We had perfect weather every day but for the hike out - more on that later.  Here we are about 9 a.m., preparing to head down.  There was some snow/ice near the top of the trail and we strapped on our YakTrax.  However, we didn't need them for long.  As you can see in the shot below at Ooh Aah Point, the trail is clear and remained so for the rest of the trek to the bottom.

Mary, Kim, Kathy at the S. Kaibab Trailhead

At Ooh Aah Point

We continued on our way down, taking in the amazing views.  It was more crowded than my first trip down in January of '09.  The chilly rim weather soon turned mild and layers were shed.  During a rest/bathroom stop at Cedar Ridge, I set my pack down under a tree.  When I returned, there was a small group of people taking photos at that spot - of a squirrel trying to get into my pack!  These varmints are quite bold (sadly, a result of people who feed them) and very adept at thievery.  I snapped a couple of pics as well, but when he tried to bite through my water bottle, I chased him away. 

Leaving Cedar Ridge, I assumed that Mary and Kathy were a good bit ahead of me down the trail.  At one point, I waved to two people at O'Neill Butte, thinking it was my two hiking buddies.  When I arrived at Phantom Ranch, I discovered that they had not yet checked in.  How could that be?  There isn't any way to pass someone on the trail without notice, and I was taking my own sweet time and savoring the adventure.  I got our dorm assignment and went ahead to secure lower bunks for each of us.  I did get a bit concerned after a while - but not to worry.  My intrepid friends soon showed up and informed me that they were taking in the view on the west side of Cedar Ridge, and I headed down ahead of them!

Dorm, Sweet Dorm Number 15:

By the way, I took 671 pictures on this trip - a new record, even for me.  The beauty of digital - I photograph everything, using multiple exposures and therefore manage to get a few good ones.  I won't be including them all here, but if you really want to see them all, just ask.  LOL!

We walked a lot around Phantom, finding that sitting down for more than a few minutes caused every muscle to stiffen up instantly.  When the dinner bell rang at 6:30, we were more than ready for our beef stew - including salad, cornbread and chocolate cake for dessert!  They do an amazing job with the food at Phantom Ranch - everything is fresh, hot and plentiful.  We can thank the hardworking mules for hauling it all down!  Meals are served "family style" at long tables, so it's a great chance to meet and chat with other hikers.  Each night we were assigned a different table and people come and go from day to day - the faces change and there's always lots to share.

The Canteen - hub for meals, mail, souvenirs and socializing

Dinner!

  

Dessert!



Kathy, Kim, Mary - at dinner

What a beautiful evening!  After dinner, we headed down to the Boat Beach along the Colorado River.  The moon was up and so bright that we did not need our flashlights.  Even with the moonlight, we were able to see thousands of stars, including Big/Little Dippers, Cassiopeia, Pleiades, and several planets (not sure which).

True to my word to the Luney Ladies, while at the beach I howled at that almost full moon.  Mary howled a bit, and Kathy claims to have "yipped" but I'm not sure I heard her.  Perhaps I scared her?  We wondered what the nearby campers might have thought...

A shower sure felt good, as did my lumpy bunk.  Lights out.

Getting Floored

Well, here I am back in AZ.  I am grateful for a roof over my head and indoor plumbing, but am without furniture, a tv and internet service!  Not sure which of those is worse, but at the moment I'm missing my bed the most.  Our condo has tenants, so I'm staying at the house.  I'm able to connect to the internet over at the condo clubhouse, so I'm not completely cut off from the world.

Not sure which is more stupid - an air mattress that comes with a pump that ONLY works with electricity and needs 12 hours to charge (which I discovered as I was preparing for bed my first night), - or the person who buys such a thing.

I made a pallet with every blanket and sheet I could find and it didn't help much.  It was a long night.  I looked forward to night two with a charged pump and air mattress with actual air.  NOT.  The pump does not work!  The whole thing is brand new, right out of the box...hell of a time to discover a defect.  (I've also dealt with a dead car battery two different mornings - not my week for batteries.)  The next morning, as I lay on the floor wondering if I could actually get upright without emergency assistance, a neuron fired in my tired old brain.  Hair dryer!!!  It does work, a bit.  I spent most of today down in Prescott, running errands and shopping at stores that do not exist up here in Sedona.  And I bought an air pump.  I'm so excited, I might just go to bed right now...

I have been here for 4 days and have not had even one measly hike.  Not one.  Nada.  Too many other things demanding my attention and keeping me from meandering through the red rocks.  That just isn't right!  This weekend is the big hike to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  I am concerned about hiking out this time - lack of training, stressed out, bogged down with worry over things I can't control.  I'm hoping that my time in the Canyon will restore my spirit and recharge my enthusiasm.  At least, while concentrating on where I'm walking and on not falling over the edge, perhaps I won't be able to focus on other things?  And well, if that doesn't work and I don't watch where I'm going, then I won't have to worry about the other stuff anyway!

I mentioned to my hiking buddy Mary that I am concerned about her getting back up to the rim long before I do.  Her sister Kathy will also be with us.  Mary's response was that "Kathy is even slower than you."  Wow, I didn't know that was possible!

Here's a photo of almond tree blossoms - a wonderful surprise in our yard.  Had not seen these two trees in bloom before and did not know what they are.  Just gorgeous, and they smell heavenly.  There are also two small nectarine trees in bloom.  If we get actual harvests from these, we can perhaps live on almonds, nectarines, mesquite flour and prickly pear fruit.  (A lot healthier than the Jalapeno Cheetos I had yesterday - all your fault, Amy.)

Delightfully scented almond tree blossoms

While in Prescott today, I visited the Home Depot and Lowes resident Great Horned Owls.  Both stores have a pair who live in their garden departments, high in the rafters.  As these areas are open to the outdoors, the birds can come and go at will and seem to like the shelter - while not minding the shoppers and gawkers.

The Lowes owls have not produced any offspring the last year or two, but look who I saw today at Home Depot!  Supposedly there are 3 young, but I just saw these two with one of the adults.  Aren't they just beautiful?  I don't know when they were born.

Adult and two young Great Horned Owls

The employees seem to really enjoy visiting the owls and talking about them.  Except maybe in this case...while I was in Home Depot, a female employee had to climb a ladder to retrieve a large box that was on a shelf below the owl area.  When she tilted the box toward her, some rather unpleasant owl effects rained down on her head.  Effects being...the chewed back leg of a rabbit and bits of, uh, other stuff.  Who knew such things could befall a person working in Home Depot?

Many of my dear friends have been asking what's happening with the sale of our St. Charles home.  I haven't wanted to say much, not wanting to jinx anything.  We do have a contract and are currently working through the inspection process.  We still have to hold our breath for a bit and hope it all goes through (hence the above-referenced stress).  The reality of moving so far away from all that I've loved for so many years...well, it is starting to sink in and turns out I'm not as tough as I like to think.

So please, my friends, keep your collective fingers crossed for us and bear with me as I am even crabbier than usual.  I hope to make it up to everyone by offering a place to stay and a personal tour guide when you visit Sedona.  I promise you won't have to sleep on an air mattress - even one with air in it.